A Recipe That Is Quince and Easy

Some recipes really come out by accident, don't they?

I was recently asked by a cooking school coordinator to think of a recipe with quince paste because they have so much of it in stock. Quince paste. Before I go on, I will admit that I was not entirely familiar with this fruit but I have tried it as a kid. But certainly during my time at George Brown it was never brought up. Suffice to say, it is a rare fruit with a distinct flavour.

Without getting really boring, quince is a yellow shaped, pear looking fruit that can be eaten raw, but not entirely recommended unless very ripe. It is extremely sour and very hard to even bite into, so it is best if it is cooked. Once cooked, it takes on an orange hue. You can try buying the fruit but it is rare and it can be difficult to find. However, you can buy it often in a paste form. Or even sometimes in jams. If you can't find quince paste or jam, you can use marmalade as a substitute for this recipe.

In fact, I learned that the origin of marmalade comes from quince jam (the Portuguese word for quince is marmelo, leading to the now famous preserve) that was made in Portugal and sent to England. I imagine there has been changes to the classic jam but whatever. You get the idea.

Here is a simple recipe that I found several years ago but altered over time. I have never served this at the golf course I work at, but at home I do.

Quince Glazed Pork Chops

Handful of mustard seeds
Juice of 2 Lemons
200 ml or about 2/3 of a cup quince paste
100 ml Dijon mustard
100 ml White wine
1 Red Onion, diced
A Few Twigs of Rosemary or Thyme
8 Pork Chops


Preheat an oven to 350°F.

Combine the mustard seeds, quince paste and lemon juice and whisk until quince is broken up. Add mustard, white wine, onion, rosemary, salt and pepper. Pour half of the mustard concoction on the bottom of some kind of baking dish. I don't know your inventory so use whatever you got. Lay the chops in da dish and cover with remainder of the glazey glaze.

Then bakey-bake the pork for about a half an hour. If you bought the chops bone in,it takes another 5 - 10 minutes to cook them. However, I like a little pink in pork chops, but you can cook them to whatever doneness you desire.

Serve with some kind of starch. Like Herb Roasted Potatoes!

Serves 8.

Variation: use marmalade instead of quince.

A Humble Chef's tip: you can cover the pork for half the cooking time to speed it up. Then uncover to caramelize the glaze.

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Budding Tastes

Cold soups seem kind of odd, don't they? To many people, cold soup is an oxymoron. But that really isn't true is it? Yeah sure you can call many fruit soups a smoothie. Cantaloupe, Honeydew and even Cucumber Soup is often uncooked and pureed and served chilled. Throw in some flavours and, well, that's it. But there are others that are slightly more complex. Take Vichyssoise for example. If anybody can provide for me a recipe for a no-cook Vichyssoise, please feel free and send it off and I'll give it a shot and I'll post it on the blog.

I have made this recipe many times and often with different types of apples. It is striking how much the soup changes every time in both taste and appearance. I first tried with Granny Smiths and it was too tart. Pink Lady wasn't bad but had an odd colour of pinkish brown. It didn't look right. Empires and Macintosh worked well in each occasion and in my mind had the best and so the last time I experimented I used both.

If you are a fan of cold soups, and I know that many of you are not, remember that it is a great way to experiment on any flavour combination. Having said that, remember that taste buds are more sensitive to salt when the soup (or anything for that matter) is hot. Cold food and drinks tones down the palate. So, what does that mean? If you are preparing any cold soup that is first cooked then chilled, season to taste after chilling so you know exactly how it tastes for presentation.

I'm going to give my Humble Chef's tip a little early: if you are being forced to eat something somewhat unpleasant, but is probably very healthy for you, drink a glass of ice water right before consuming. Yes, it really does dull the taste buds for a short amount of time.

I am being very restraint in not providing a sarcastic remark regarding the many unpleasant meals I have eaten over the years. Truth is, I was probably the cook who made most of them.

Cold Apple Curry Soup

Dab of Butter
1 Cooking Onion, roughly chopped
2 Cloves of Garlic
8 Empire Apples, quartered and cored, skin on
12 MacIntosh Apples, quartered and cored, skin on
250 ml White Wine
1 L Vegetable Stock
.5 L Apple Cider
Tbs. Tumeric
Tsp. Dried Ginger
Tsp. Cumin
Tsp. Coriander Seed
Tsp. Clove
Tsp. Cinnamon
Tsp. Cayenne
100 g Old Cheddar, grated, for garnish
Salt and Pepper to taste

In a tall stock pot, melt butter and cook onions for 1 minute. Add all spices and garlic and stir frequently. Cook for 4 - 5 minutes or until spices are sticking to the bottom of the pan. Add apples and cook for 2 minutes. Add wine and resuce by half. Add stock and bring to a boil and let simmer for 8 - 10 minutes. Puree and remove from heat. Add cider and let cool rapidly in an ice bath. Adjust to taste.

Garnish with cheddar and something green. Whatever.

Serves 6 - 8.

Variation: this recipe works with Anjou Pears. Make sure the pears (even the apples for that matter) are very ripe.

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A Dessert to Mull Over

I haven't done a dessert in a while and so here we are. A cook's dessert that is easy to make, better when you let it set and fairly inexpensive.

Panna Cotta is a straight forward dessert that takes no time to make. The only catch is that you have to let it set in the fridge for a few hours before you serve. If you have the time to make it in advance for your party, it is well worth the patience.

Panna Cotta is strictly cream, milk, sugar and gelatin to let it set. An easy foundation that is highly adaptable.

Gelatin is available at all major grocers and is very inexpensive. If you are not aware, gelatin is a meat by-product that comes from the bone marrow. It can be purchased as a powder or as a clear, brittle sheet. It is usually found in, obviously, JELL-O, marshmallows, candies such as gummy bears and low-fat yogurt. When making a homemade chicken stock, if reduced too much, the stock becomes thick from the gelatin in the bone marrow. In fact, Demi Glace is a classic sauce, that essentially is a reduction of either beef or veal stock, that is so naturally thick from gelatin, that it is barely pourable. Very flavourful and usually very expensive.

Mulled cider has become a bit of a staple for me. Prior to working for a retailer that sampled Mulling Spices, I was not too familiar with the idea of spicing up cider or wine. And yet, I now appreciate the blend of spices for what they offer: a rich combination of flavours and an intoxicating aroma that spreads through the house. Mulling spices is basically a blend of whole cloves, cinammon sticks and allspice. However, that is strictly a base that you can expand from.

This recipe I recently taught in a cooking class and I was very happy with the final product. It had a nice appearance, vibrant flavours and a creamy texture that all came together.

Mulled Spice Panna Cotta

8 g Gelatin, powder (1 packet)
150 ml 2% Milk
350 ml 35% Cream
Mulling Spices (2 cinammon sticks, 4 whole cloves, pinch of ground allspice, zest of an orange)
Splash of Vanilla Extract
100 g Sugar
Drizzle of Maple Syrup
Berries and Mint for Garnish

In a stainless steel bowl, pour milk and sprinkle gelatin on top. Mix with a fork.

In a sauce pan, heat cream with spices and sugar. Bring to a scald and let her simmer for a minute. Strain spices. Add cream to milk. Add vanilla and stir. Pour cream into 4 ramekins (buttered is optional) and let set for at least 4 hrs.

Garnish with berries and mint.

Serves 4.

A Humble Chef's tip: it is easier to remove spices if you have a large infuser.

Variation: to keep it festive, try a Cranberry Orange Panna Cotta by subbing the milk with cranberry and orange juice.

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Do Yourself a Party Favour Endive Right In

I often get asked what would be an easy yet elegant hors d'oeurve they can serve at New Years. I try to keep the work at a minimum when it comes to little bit sized app's. Because the work itself will be painstaking no matter what recipe you do: you will end up making all of your app's one by one. It's usually not as much fun when you have to make 2.5 pieces of everything you make.

It is common for catering companies to make 2.5 app's of each type per person. For example, you have 20 people. And you intend to make 4 types of hors d'oeuvre, then 2.5 times 4 making 10 multiplied by how many people there are; in this case 20. 200 pieces in total. Seems like a lot but when you figure that each one is intended only to be a bite size portion, it really isn't.

Doing little party snacks often don't get the appreciation they deserve. A ton of work usually go into it and most people consider them as a filler before dinner. Shame really. But that's the way things go. And so, in the industry, many establishments will outsource their hors d'oeurve from another business who would specialize in the production of this type of dish.

Endives are wonderful little vegetables. They have a unique flavour to them, can be easily used for garnishes and are great additions for salads. They are also great for hors d'oeurve as well. Unlike crostinis or crackers, there is no work involved in prepping them. Simply break the leaves off the core and serve.

To avoid confusion, endives are cone shaped and have layers that easily break off. In Canada, we call them Belgian Endives. I've worked with several cooks who called it something different (chicory, which we in Canada know it as something else, and witloof) but we all eventually understood each other. I've even worked with someone from Sri Lanka who referred to frisee as an endive. Suffice to say, we were both confused at first.

I've never seen endives grown myself, but like the white asparagus, it is deprived of sunlight to reduce the chances of it opening or turning green. A good rule of thumb for me when purchasing endives are to pick out the whitest ones. If there is chlorophyll, chances are it will be slightly bitter. Not better.

Crab and Watermelon Salad on an Endive

1 Can of Cooked Crab, chopped
1/2 Small Watermelon, medium dice
1 Small Red Onion, finely diced
Splash of Lemon Juice
Small bunch of Basil, chiffonade
Drizzle of Olive Oil
3 Endives
Salt and Pepper to Taste

In a large bowl, combine crab, watermelon, red onion, lemon juice and basil.Mix well and season to taste. Lat marinate for 15 - 20 minutes and drain.

Preplatter endives on large plates. Spoon desired amounts on endive and serve quickly.

Makes about 20 hors d'oeurve.

Variation: no crab? Try lobster. No watermelon? Try mango. No Basil? Try a new store.

A Humble Chef's tip: you can buy crab frozen instead and thaw it and poach it and cool it and break it and clean it and chop it and season it and serve it. Or buy the can and open it.

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Food Pearing

Today we have two recipes. I've decided to provide two side dishes that you may want to serve during the holidays. These recipes are extremely simple yet add a little elegance to the norm.

Apple sauce has always been a staple for large pork roasts. Personally, I am a fan of combining a little sweetness to a savoury roast. Though, there is no need to limit to pork. I'm sure many of you serve Cranberry Sauce with your turkey dinner. But, for a change I have a recipe that will certainly make your guests raise one eyebrow with the name, then both eyebrows with the taste.

As for the potatoes, during a busy time I like to keep things simple and still tasty. For large groups of people, I don't recommend a complex sides like Pomme Dauphine. But, you could go for my Mashed Potatoes and have it done in advance. However, roasting your potatoes is easy, tasty and a little more elegant than mashed. Well, at least, I think so.

Kiwi Pear Sauce

4 Kiwis, peeled and roughly chopped
8 Bosc Pears, peeled and roughly chopped
100 g Sugar
100 ml Water
Pinch of Cinammon
1/2 Stick of Butter

In a sauce pan, combine everything but the butter. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cover for 12 - 15 minutes.

Remove from heat.

In a frying pan, melt butter until golden and frothy. Here you want to caramelize the milk solids to make a Beurre Noisette. Fold into sauce and serve.

Serves 8 - 10.

Herb Crusted Potatoes

16 Mid-Sized Yukons, cut into 8's, in cold water
Small Bunch of Fresh Thyme, finely chopped
Small Bunch of Fresh Rosemary, finely chopped
Small Bunch of Fresh Parsley, finely chopped
1 Clove of Garlic, crushed
Pinch of Cayenne and Paprika
Drizzle of Peanut Oil
Salt and Pepper to Taste

Preheat oven to 400.

In a tall sauce pan, fill with water and table spoon of salt. Bring to slight boil. Blanch potatoes until three quarters cooked. Remove from water and let cool slightly.

In a large bowl, combine oil, salt and pepper, seasonings and herbs and mix. Add potatoes and toss. Lay out evenly on a baking sheet with parchement.

Cook in oven for 10 minutes.

Serve immediately.

Serves 16. Two if they're Irish.


A Humble Chef's tip: if you have a food mill, don't bother peeling and seeding the pears when cooking. Then run your mix and puree through the mill.

Variation: for the potatoes, go ahead and try some of your herbs leftover from the summer garden. Oregano, sage, savory. Whatever you have.

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Whip It Up

When I started this blog, little did I realize that I was going to open each post with a brief intro and some chat relating to whatever recipe I write. I truly wonder if people actually read this. But, here I am 50 posts(!) later and now I must write about todays recipe: Zabglione with Berries. Ugh. Well, I suppose I have to think of something. Hold on. Let me think for a second. Wikipedia search maybe? Nah. I'll wing it.

I demonstrated this recipe earlier this week at a cooking class and I could tell the ladies watching me looked nervous as I whipped this dessert. They asked me, "Are you serious?"

It is true it takes a bit of work, however, if you have a hand mixer that you can use: this is the time. If you are brave enough to go for it with some gusto good for you. All I can offer to help is two words: figure eight (if you are unsure what this means, then use a hand mixer).

This morning on my way to work I listened to an interview with La Dolce Vita star David Rocco from the food network. Sounds like a nice guy who stumbled onto a great gig. Anyways, he went on about getting involved with your ingredients and some silly zen notion that food will taste better when you get your hands dirty. I guess there is some truth to this but some things you don't have to do by hand if you don't want to or if you are simply physically unable to. You want to make a glossy meringue by hand then be my guest. Are you comfortable enough rolling out pasta with a rolling pin or would you prefer sing a pasta roller? For this recipe, you are better off using a hand mixer unless you have been shown the best way of aerating egg yolks.

Trust me. You'll thank me later.

Zabaglione with Strawberries
4 Egg Yolks
200 ml White Wine or Sparkling White Wine
250 g Sugar
15-20 Strawberries, halved
Juice from 1 Lemon
200 ml Whipping Cream
Ice for Ice Bath
12 Biscotti
Mint for Garnish

Using an electric mixer, whip cream to stiff peaks. Reserve.

In a sauce pan, bring a little water to a simmer.

In a bowl, combine yolks, wine and sugar and lightly whisk.

On simmering water, whisk with a hand mixer the egg mixture until it triples in volume. After 10 minutes, place mixture into an ice bath and whisk for another 10 minutes.

Combine with cream by carefully folding into the mixtures.

Serve immediately with berries and biscotti. Garnish with mint.

Serves 6.

Variation: This is a base that you can expand on. Instead of wine, use Frangellico and garnish with hazelnuts or something like that.

A Humble Chef's tip: throw away your hand mixer and get your hands dirty! Food will taste so much better once you become one with your ingredients. Close your eyes and feel the gooey egg yolks coat your figures before you eat them. Trust me. You'll thank me later.

A Humble Chef's test: just checking to see if you actually read my intro.

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Chop! Chop!

Apples are great. However, they have a weakness: they are easily overpowered. When combining them with something else, they can get lost very easily. That is why apple sauce goes so well with pork chops: pork chops have very little flavour and the sweetness offsets the fattiness of the chop.

On the flip side, I've made Mulligatawny Soup (which apparently means "pepper-water") with grated apple to compliment the curry flavours. In the soup (which by the way is fantastic, if anyone wishes to know it, ask and I shall post it, if no requests then I won't bother) the flavour of the apples are lost if used too sparingly but the tartness adds a different dimension to the soup that is only noticeable when noted. Again, it is the building of flavours I've referred to in the past that I'm getting at.

This simple, simple, simple recipe is for the person who wants to make everything fresh but isn't complicated. Serve this with sweet potato mash or regular mash. Which, incidentally, was requested by my cousin to post because she swears I make the best mash she's ever had. Well, mash potatoes are as easy as it gets but maybe, just maybe, I know a trick about how to make mash potatoes better than average. Stay tuned.

One quick note on making apple sauce; I like using a food mill to puree the sauce. If you don't have one, you will have to peel the apples, remove seeds and quater them.

Grilled Pork Loin With Apple Sauce

8 Pork Chops, cut from the loin
2 Sprigs of Sage, finely chiffonade
Pinch of Paprika
Salt and Pepper to Taste
6 Apples, quatered
200 g Brown Sugar
Pinch of Cinnamon
100 g Unsalted Butter

Preheat BBQ or indoor grill pan. Marinate chops with sage and paprika in the fridge for ten minutes.

In a mid-sized sauce pan on medium high heat, throw in cinnamon, sugar and apples and cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and add water if too dry. Cook thoroughly until apples are mushy. Using a food mill, throw in cooked mixture and puree.

In a small frying pan, melt butter until it starts turning a little brown (this is called a beurre noisette) and fold into the puree. Keep hot until served.

On grill, sear off loins. After 2 minutes, turn one quarter and let sear for another minute. Turn over and repeat. After searing, remove from direct heat and let cook for 6-8 minutes depending on thickness of the chop. The interior should reach be a little pink but not fleshy looking.

Serve with Apple Sauce.

Serves 4.

Variation: You can even try this with peameal bacon, or back or Canadian or whatever you want to call it, using the exact same method. Cooking time would be reduce simply because peameal takes no time to cook since it has already been cured.

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Forget Salsa. Chicks Dig Meringue.

Sometimes at work things can be repetitive. Every once in a while I like to try something new and sometimes things work and sometimes they don't. It is useful that I don't have to pay for my experimenting as well.

In a previous post (the ratatoiulle recipe) I briefly explained what a confit is. Here is an example of a fruit confit where the fruit is usually saturated in acid.

A simple, cheap recipe that takes a minute (hopefully you have a stand mixer to help you along the way) and allows you to practice making a meringue.

There are three types of meringue typically: common, swiss and Italian. This recipe is best with Italian (beating the egg whites while adding a hot simple syrup) because it is more stable in humid temperatures but it takes extra time and practice. The common meringue works perfectly well.

Vanilla Scented Poached Meringue with a Balsamic Strawberry Confit

4 Egg Whites
350 g White Sugar
1 Dozen Ripe Strawberries, cut into 6
50 ml Balsamic Vinegar
50 ml Vanilla Extract

In a small sauce pan, bring about half a liter of water to a boil. Add vanilla and let simmer.

Sprinkle a little sugar at the base of a small bowl. Add egg whites on top and let whip with a hand mixer or stand mix. When egg whites double in volume, start adding remainder of sugar slowly. Approximately 8 - 10 minutes. Egg whites should reach stiff peaks and should be glossy and very sweet.

In a frying pan on med heat, drizzle canola oil and let get hot. Add strawberries and quickly saute. Add sugar and vinegar and whisk until dissolved. Turn off heat and let cool.

Using two spoons, scoop 1 tbs. into vanilla water and let poach for one minute. Turn over meringue and continue poaching for another minute. Remove and drain. Repeat until desired amount is reached.

To serve, spoon strawberry mix onto plate, then place one meringue. Repeat and finish with Mint Oil.

Serves 4.

Mint Oil

1 Bunch of Mint
15 ml Hazelnut Oil (or any form of peanut oil)
Dash of Sugar
Squeeze of Half a Lemon

In a blender, add all ingredients and blend thoroughly.

Chill.

A Humble Chef's Tip: When making an herb oil, you can blanch the herb in simmering water and chill in a ice bath. Actually, I recommend it if you are using a leafy herb like parsley or coriander. It won't affect the taste of the oil, but will make the oil a little greener. It will also cut the life span of the oil a little because it may turn brown faster.

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